Kharakhorum

Am sitting here in Khara whatever I can’t remember how to spell it and the temp is over 40c - phew. Flew from UB on a small twin prop plane down to Dalanzadgad in the south Gobi desert. Next form of transport was a Russian built tank - a Furgon and we have been in it ever since. Every night we stop at ger camps of varying niceness (is there such a word?) some are great some not but undoubtedly the scenery surrounding them is universally awesome! Most days we drive 6/7 hours stopping often to photograph gers, horses, camels etc. Doug has seen some birdies including a golden eagle, a steppes eagle and some other I have forgotten right now - sorry! Our driver is a star, the roads are dirt track, sandy and extremely bumpy and I know you are all saying what the hell are they doing?

Been on the obligatory camel trek, Doug's bum may never recover I fear - they really are the most disgusting animals but rather endearing - I like them! We also climbed an 800m vertical sand dune to see the sunset at Julchin and then sledged down on plastic trays - I had sand in places undiscovered even now! The washing facilities in most of the camps isn't brilliant as there is not much water in the Gobi (as you would expect) so not many clean clothes left and we are all pretty disgusting by the end of the day. Our guide Togi is a 21 yr old Mongolian who is very keen so that’s a plus and we are going to the Naadam Festival in his home village where we will meet his family and probably not any other westerners. Phoned my Dad yesterday from the middle of the Gobi, bizarre, we got a signal for no reason so all leapt out and phoned home (there are 4 of us...) I can’t describe how it felt to be talking about home, the veggie garden etc when I am surrounded by endless land and massive blue skies. There is so little here but it is an amazing place to be. Oh I just remembered, Doug saw a Lammergei (bearded vulture) which he got very excited about for some reason!

We finally left the Gobi desert yesterday and have now been travelling all day across the Mongolian steppes - very different scenery from the desert as you can imagine. Everyone is getting very excited about the Naadam and I guess we are too.... Am stiff and tired and in need of a beer and some very smelly Mongolian has just dragged himself up behind me and is breathing down my neck - yuk - think I might finish up now.... Most of the people we have met have been incredibly friendly although they are few and far between as you can imagine.

This is the most beautiful place and the silence is perfect. Hope everyone is well and I guess the next email will be a surprise.. Take care, please send news.

Love Annie x