Lovely hot sunny day so decided to go on a long bike ride through the countryside, stopping half way round the 25 mile route for a beer (yes, I know that is a LONG bike ride……thank God for padded cycle shorts!) Love the countryside, very clean, still no traffic, fields of blue linseed and yellow rapeseed, more châteaux than you can shake a stick at, all in all, very French. They take a great pride in their public spaces and veggie plots – good day.
Photo - Annie
Monday 7 May
Couldn’t walk (due to previous day’s exercise) luckily for me it was a travel day! Headed for the supermarket for another stock up of food and then hit the road towards Poitier, bypassing Limoges and heading towards Bergerac and the Dordogne area. Ended up in a small town called Les Eyzies-Tayac-Sirevil (population 850 for those interested) where there is a lot to see apparently. Ate out, finally, in a local restaurant and very nice it was too!
Photo - Les Eyzies-Tayac-Sirevil
Tuesday 8 May
Drove to Rouffignac, boarded a little train and went underground through pre-historic caves. The guide only spoke French but we got the gist of it (amazing how much of that schoolgirl French returns…) and after all, mammoth, bison and various other animals don’t really need translation! Not many people anywhere we have been and this was no exception. Doug very frustrated at not being allowed to take photos now that he has his big lens to play with…..
Next stop was the Grotte du Grande Roc where we were duly amazed at the iridescent stalactites and mites. This was followed by a visit to the nearby Abris de Laugerie Basse caves where Cro-Magnon man lived.
Guess you could say we are now thoroughly caved-out!
Photo - le camping car from Cro-Magnon man’s viewpoint up a cliff
Photo - houses built under cro-magnon cliffs
Photo - aforementioned "mites"
Still moving South. Hit our first toll road today which you pay for with a credit card which somewhat confused us… The roads are all empty except for around major cities so driving le camping car is very easy. Have to say that the French are very very into le camping cars, they are everywhere and well catered for (unlike the UK!) Hardly any caravans to be seen, mainly French, Dutch and German tourists judging by the number plates, not many Brits around.
Headed towards the city of Albi (pop 49,000 therefore big!) hoping to get to see the famous cathedral and visit the Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec Museum. He hailed from this city and it houses the most extensive collection of his work anywhere we are told. Sadly this was the first time le camping car became a pain-in-the-xxxx as it was too big to park anywhere and we went around and around with Doug’s blood pressure almost reaching busting point! So it was with sadness that, after the tenth circuit of the city, we gave up and headed out of town, deciding that it was time for us to treat ourselves to a vineyard stop to cheer ourselves up…
Before leaving the UK we had purchased a book called French Passion that basically gives you lists of vineyards or farms where you can stay for free for one night only and where obviously they hope you will buy something from them. Doug and I worked out very quickly that we would rather try and buy wine and stay free than pay for a campsite! Having said that, you have to have all your own facilities (toilet etc) as none are available and they only take one or two camping vans per night. Very civilised we thought as we sat in our meadow, bathed in sunshine, drinking a free bottle they had given us to drink with our supper – bread, cheese & olives – this is what we came to France for….
Photo - how hard is life in my meadow!
Thursday 10 May
Set off early for Cordes sur Ciel (pop unknown!) another beautiful medieval town with cobbled streets and with amazing views from the top - vineyards for as far as the eye can see. Aiming to get to a town called LaGrasse where two of Doug’s school friends (John & Sue) have a house. Very hot today, weather has been pretty good so far… Arrived at the campsite at LaGrasse mid-afternoon, met John & Sue, took a quick tour of the town, had a late supper then bed exhausted – long day!
Up early (again) met J&S and headed out for a bike ride to see the surrounding countryside and ended up (17 miles later!!!) back in the town square for a wonderful lunch. Have to say I am loving the salads, goats cheese and wine that seems to be my staple diet since arriving in this country, not doing my weight a lot of good (I cant resist the mouth-watering pastries at the Patisseries and I haven’t dared go near a chocolatarie yet but you know I will….) That evening Doug and John went to find a nightjar (but didn’t) heard an eagle owl and saw a polecat!!!
Photo - the man with the long lens
Sue’s birthday and weather very hot – 30+. Went for a walk around a lagoon south of Narbonne and had a picnic lunch. On the way home we stopped at a vineyard (as you do) and ended up with another 6 bottles. Main problem that I can see with this holiday is balancing all this wine so that the front wheels of le camping car stay on the ground when heading up hills as most of the wardrobe is slowly being taken over by cases of wine!
Photo - the photographer's photograph!
Photo - poppies everywhere you look
Sadly almost time to move on but Sue & John had one last treat in store – lunch at a fantastic restaurant not far from them – Sue’s birthday treat! The food was to die for (and as most of you know I am not a foodie) so praise indeed. Of course French lunch takes at least 2 hours -most frustrating until you get used to it.
The shops open at 9.00 and close at 12.00 or 12.30 to re-open at 2.00 or 2.30 until anytime between 5.00 and 7.00. We always seem to be in the wrong place at the wrong time, getting to buy postage stamps has always been a bit of a challenge (hence the reason most of you haven’t received a card as yet…)
Finally left LaGrasse which is a beautiful spot and one to which we hope to return – thank you Sue & John for your wonderful hospitality. Oh, before leaving we visited a small family winery next to S&J’s house, tasted and duly bought another 3 bottles!!!!
Still moving South, we headed for Carcassone (pop 46,000 yep, its another big one) and arrived at around 6.00 to a huge campsite, weather now overcast.
Photo - birthday girl at next door winery
Photo - Flopsy & Wopsy obviously enjoying lunch…
Monday 14 May
Rained all night and most of the morning so finally managed to walk into Carcassonne around lunchtime – to find that it is Monday and all the shops were closed! However, that is not what I came for (???) so visited the old walled town which looked breathtakingly beautiful and fairytale-like from the outside but which turned out to be a bit like Disney inside! The buildings were old and interesting, the tourists and the tourist shops were not….. This was a major Cathar city (more of them to follow at a later entry..) and visited the Basilique St Nazaire – fabulous 13thc church before walking the River Aude and back to our beds.
Left Carcassonne and headed towards Foix and had our first view of the Pyrenees, majestic and snowy in the far distance – very impressive. Foix (pop 9700 manageable size) is the county seat of the Ariege area. Immediately jumped on our bikes (not raining) and cycled 6 miles to visit the Riviere Souterraine Labouiche – a 1500m underground river system. We boarded a boat, alone except for a French-only speaking guide and spent a fascinating hour travelling underground; apparently it is Europe’s longest navigable underground river – so there!
Photo - underground river
Bed early after supper – rained very heavily during the night – need sunshine pleeeeese.
Up and out dodging rain clouds into Foix town – 5 mile round walk/sprint. Of course arrived just as the Chateau des Comtes de Foix, (early middle age castle) was closing for lunch (sigh) at 12.30 so was forced to take a long leisurely lunch ourselves until it re-opened at 2.00. And very good it was too – sweet crepes and savoury galettes this time with our wine. Chateau visit followed by stop off at Abbey of St Volusianus, who was martyred in the 14th century – had forgotten what a bloody-thirsty time this was in history.
Photo - street in Foix
Thursday 17 May
Moving into Cathar country properly today and closer to the Pyrenees. Potted history: The Cathars (a religious sect) were the fundamentalists of their day and were persecuted for their beliefs which, simply put, were that all humans were basically evil at heart (yep, some are for sure…) but if one led a pure life (is this possible?) one could free the spirit from its satanical body! Had many followers in various towns around this part of France and their extremists were called parfaits (“perfects”) who were strict vegetarians and abstained from sex!!!!! In 1208 Pope Innocent III preached a crusade against the Cathars for various reasons, mainly political as far as I can work out in order to expand territories into the Languedoc region, and most were wiped out in various massacres by 1321.
Photo - Buns enjoying the view
Photo - yes that is Doug with a beard!
Friday 18 May
Up early and off by 10.00 on long walk which eventually took 5 hours! Nearly killed me because by lunchtime it was over 35c. The countryside is very beautiful and the Pyrenees as a backdrop with snow on the peaks was a photographer’s dream. Not many birdies were out for Doug to look at as it was far too hot for them, but then you can’t have it all!
Saturday 19 May
On the road by 9.00 and headed for the Château de Queribus – this was supposed to be a safe (?) place but ended up being the place where the last of the Cathars were massacred. Strange to stand in beautiful ruins on the top of a (very steep) mountain admiring stunning scenery in all directions, but where so many innocent people had died.
Drove back into Corbiere country and headed for a vineyard stop at St Paul de Fenouillet – Domaine l’Esperet – bought (yet another) six bottles here…. Not far from the Gorge Galamus which is supposed to be spectacular but we couldn’t get the campervan down it and I didn’t fancy the bike – looked like rain to me….
Photo - aforementioned vineyard
On the road by 9.30 towards Narbonne and eventually to Millau (pronounced mee-yo to those that might possibly be interested!). Weather overcast and humid Stopped in Aire de Lapalme – the most disgusting toilets so far – yuk! Had coffee in the weirdest Asian-style deco-fronted building full of pink pianos and Thai furnishings – most bizarre and the coffee was foul.
Drove to Rouquefort village and took a tour of the caves to see how this cheese was made and, of course, bought some.
Passed a Norman Foster bridge, Photo which had won lots of architectural prizes, not far from Millau - the Visitor Centre was doing a brisk trade in t-shirts, t-towels, mugs etc with the bridge on it! Needless to say we resisted the temptation to buy… Camped at Les Rivages in Millau which had a wonderful pool – I was in heaven splashing about, lying on my back watching hang gliders nearby jumping off cliffs – mad buggers…
Weather changed – wet and cloudy so Doug walked into town and I slopped about Le Camping Car doing nothing much except eating cheese and drinking wine (as you do). Drove up the Tarn Gorge
Tuesday 22 May
Weather hot this morning (strange how it changes from one day to the next, almost like the UK) so cranked down the bikes from the back of the van and headed off for a morning’s cycling then lazed about for the rest of the day.
Photo - typical French village
Wednesday 23 May
Weather hot again and a 9.00 start! Decided to drive to Albi and give it another go as we really wanted to go to the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum and were determined that this time we would find the special car park for camping cars….. Unfortunately we arrived at lunchtime and the traffic was a nightmare, Doug’s blood pressure shot up and I needed a drink! However, we finally managed to find the car park and hit the first restaurant we could find as, of course, everything was closed until 2.00pm! Well we made the Museum and I have to say after all that trouble that he really does not do it for me… I am sure I am a Philistine but there you go… Next stop was the Cathedral which looks like a fort from the outside but was amazing inside – loved it!
Photo - the Cathedral in Albi 1
Photo - the Cathedral in Albi 2
Photo - the Cathedral in Albi 3
Left Albi around 4.00 and of course it was sort-of rush-hour so traffic was horrendous again and yet again we got lost. GPS is a marvellous thing but it was not too good in this city as obviously a lot had changed since it had been originally programmed. However we were determined to head for a vineyard and ended up at Cestayrols – Domaine du Lorroque – wonderful place but again no-one spoke English so we attempted French and ended up buying another 6 bottles (what a surprise!). Everyone we have met at these independent vineyards have been so very friendly and hospitable, they are all very proud of their vine and quite rightly so.
Photo - wine caves at Domaine de Lorroque
Photo - us parked overnight there
Thursday 24 May
Drove all day and ended up at a very small campsite called Rose d’Armagnac – yes you guessed it - we are in Armagnac country now. Got on the bikes and headed into the nearest village which was called Montreal and ended up buying a 1979 bottle of Armagnac for Alistair, a 1989 Armaganac for Doug and 2 bottles of Floc du Gascogne wine (which I have never heard of) and I had some prunes in Armagnac (think this must say something about me but I am not sure what…). Doug had to pedal back uphill to the campsite with all this booze in his backpack – poor devil!!
The weather broke in the night and I spent a while sitting watching the lightening over the surrounding countryside.
Friday 25 May
Late start today, weather overcast and we are heading for the Atlantic coast so another long day on the road. Arrived at La Petite Nice campsite on the beach - we needed proper showers and the toilet needed emptying otherwise we would have driven on somewhere else – it was very crowded and busy.
Walked along a massive beach and looked at the Dune du Pilat, Photo, a colossal sand dune which stretches for almost 3 km and is the largest in Europe and is spreading 4.5m a year. Scary stuff – it has swallowed trees (strange seeing the top of pine trees sticking out of a sand dune), a road junction and a hotel and is slowly encroaching on the campsite we are stopping in, so I guess it wont be there for many more years.
Scrabble came out tonight, funny what a bottle of wine (or two) can make you resort to – Doug won (damn him!).
Saturday 26 May
Weather deteriorating badly, absolutely torrential rain and Doug soaked carrying out toilet duties Photo. Decided to head for St Emilion (pop 2,500) because, guess what, they make good wine!!
Had the best lunch in St Emilion (with wine of course for me as I wasn’t on driving duty for a change) and then the heavens opened and we got soaked. Have to say that I was disappointed in the town itself, everything was very expensive and very touristy, coach loads of people everywhere you turned.
Photo - lunch please, note chips were not mine!
Photo - what you do on a wet night in the van…
Decided to head for another vineyard – the days of this trip are running out and we still have room for more wine on board! Ended up at Château Mayne-Blanc
Photo - so many to choose from
where we met the owner who was a fellow camping car fanatic and welcomed us like lost relatives…. We had a wine-tasting with another French family and although none of them spoke English and we spoke limited French, we had a good time and followed the advise of the other family and bought what they recommended. Another 6 bottles purchased but 3 of these were to lie down until 2010.
Sunday 27 May
Off again, towards Loire now, heading for a campsite for one night. Past Poitier (would like to have visited but Albi had put us off big cities for a while). Raining hard and getting steadily colder – not what you want on holiday really but there you go! 2000 miles travelled since we left home – probably calls for another drink – and no, we don’t have a drink problem really although I have to say we have both put on quite a bit of weight on this trip – can’t think why??
Spent the night in Mezieres en Brenne and Doug went and watched birds in the rain – campsite on the edge of a nature reserve.
Played scrabble again and I won this time (there is some justice then….)
Monday 28 May
Left around 10.00 and it is still raining. Heading for the Loire, Touraine area, passed Blois and stopped at Chambord en route.
Ended up in a vineyard (of course) Caves du Pere Auguste – 12 bottles purchased here so you can guess that we really liked these! Lots of fizzy Rose and the lady owner spoke English so we got the whole history of the place, also met her Father who staggered in on his zimmer frame (aged 89) and whose picture of him as a young boy graces the label of the wine – nice touch.
Tuesday 29 May
Time running out now – sun shining but cold today. Went to Villandry Château and had a wander around the gardens. Originally built in 1536 by Jean le Breton, (who also built Chambord) the Finance Minister for the afore-mentioned Francois I. Interesting gardens, all vegetables planted by colour and laid out in a very orderly fashion.
Photo - Gardens at Villandry Château 1
Photo - Gardens at Villandry Château 2
Next Angers and Saumur to look for a final vineyard stop.
Visited the Abbaye Royale de Fontveraud where Henry II, Eleanor of Aquaitaine, Isabelle of Angouleme (their daughter-in-law) and Richard II (Lionheart that was) were all buried. Loving history, these are all people I have read about in great detail so was interested to visit their graves.
Photo - Abbaye Royale de Fontveraud 1
Photo - Abbaye Royale de Fontveraud 2
However, decided to give the nearby Mushroom Museum a miss this time!!!!!
Finally ended up (after failing to find our first 2 choices of vineyards) at Domaine de Pont du Livier – yet another long delicious tasting with the obvious purchase of a further 12 bottles! Parked that night amongst the vines and it was a great way to end our stay in France.
Wednesday 30 May
Overcast, rained hard in the night, drove past Le Mans towards Caen and Bayeaux finally arriving at a final campsite at the Château de Martragny. Lovely grounds but hideously overcrowded and full of Brits – half term in England – back to reality! Still raining hard – played more scrabble and drank more wine. The van is now almost completely full, wine under the table, in the wardrobe, just about everywhere it has been possible to stack a box! Just a quick supermarket stop before the ferry for odds and ends
Thursday 31 May
Heading towards Cherbourg today to catch ferry late pm. Driving through WWII Normandy landings country, stopping to look at mulberry harbours out at sea, Martello towers, gun emplacements etc. The Battle of Normandy (codename Operation Overlord) was 76 days of fighting and 37,000 allies died, alongside 21,000 Germans. All such a waste of young life, ended this sombre morning with a visit to the American cemetery which overlooks Omaha Beach.
Seemingly endless rows of white crosses, set in beautifully kept grounds, spent some time here just reflecting on the uselessness of war!
Decided to cheer ourselves up with a final meal and found a perfect restaurant in a town called Grandcamp Maisy - a four course meal for 25Euros each – left stuffed. Last shop at E.Leclerk supermarket then onto the ferry.
Photo – a happy man – with very bushy beard…
Trip over but I have to say I am leaving France with a happy heart and thinking it would be good to come back. Was not sure what to expect on this trip as the little I had seen of France prior to this was not good and I had not enjoyed it much. This time, however, I have to say I found everyone we met extremely friendly (as long as I attempted to speak French….) and hospitable. The wine, as you have probably gathered is superb, they really do save the best for themselves and as we visited only independent, small vineyards, none of the wine we bought is shipped overseas. The French obviously love Le Camping Car as they provide everything you could possible need to travel easily around their country and the food, well….. Most of you know that I am not a foodie, love to cook it, not really interested in eating it BUT the food we ate was delicious, interesting and beautifully presented, have picked up some good tips and am looking forward to cooking for my friends soon.
Next trip, Washington State, USA for Alistair and Rachel’s wedding party at the end of August………………….
Annie, Doug, Flopsy & Wopsy!
1 comment:
I really enjoyed your blog, it brought back wonderful memories of our visit in May 08
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